A Beginners Guide to Medieval Costume

Baldric (Baldrick)

A leather belt or silk sash, usually richly ornamented. It was wornaround the body over one shoulder to the opposite hip to carry a sword,dagger, pouch, etc. Baldric's were worn from the 1340's. In the tale orGawain and the Green knight it says all knights of the round table worea green baldric to commemorate that adventure.

Barbette

In France a barbette is usually a veil fixed above the ears to the hairor head-dress that then fell in folds to cover the neck as a wimple. InEngland a barbette was a strip of white linen worn under the chin and drawnup at each side to be fastened on the top of the head. Bliaud A Bliaudis a long belted overtunic worn by both sexes between the eleventh andearly fourteenth century. Women wore a ground length bliaud decorated atthe hem and neck. Women's Bliauds were fitted over the torso and had widefull length sleeves. Noblemen wore a calf or ankle length Bliaud similarlydecorated with the skirt split at the sides to aid in riding. Lower classmen wore a knee length Bliaud.

Boots

Boots were an important article of clothing in the middle ages especiallybefore the mid fourteenth century. They were useful in travelling and inhouses which lacked modern comforts. Many styles of boot were mid calflength with turned down or rolled tops, and were usually laced up the side.A taller knee length boot was called a Buskin or brodequine. Fashionablecourt boots were brightly coloured and made of soft leather, and embroideredor brocaded silk. Travelling boots were usually made of leather. In thedark ages felt boots were also common in some areas. In the fourteenthcentury the toes of all footwear became extended to great lengths. Tallleather boots with heavy soles but open toes were known as Heauze or Houseaux.These varied in height from mid-calf to mid-thigh and were similar to romanand Greek designs. Hauze were used from the ninth until the fourteenthcentury.

Breech's

In the Dark age's breeches or brais were loose knee length trousersworn by men. They were not worn in the middle ages but ornate breechesbecame popular in the sixteenth century.

Cap's

In the thirteenth century the phrigian cap was popular. This was a roundfelt hat that came to a point in the front or had a forward pointing 'stalk'in the centre. It was originally Anatolian but it was seen across Europefrom early times into the middle ages. The skullcap was popular from thetwelfth century until the fifteenth. It is a small round hat closely fittingthe top of the head with no brim or peak though sometimes a tail was present.A version of the skullcap, the biretta had by the fifteenth century developedinto a stiffened square shape. The biretta was worn by academics The conicalhat popular in ancient times remained in use into the middle ages. Womenoften wore jewelled and embroidered caps of rich fabrics to contain anddecorate their plaited or coiled hair. They were particularly popular inthe late middle ages.

Cloak's

The cloak has been made from every possible shape and size of material.In ancient times it could be circular, semicircular, rectangular or a square.It was not sewn but draped or pinned about the wearer. In Medieval time'scloaks were similar but fastened by cords or brooches at the neck. It wasnot till the sixteenth century that shaped sewn and lined cloaks were introduced.In the dark age's cloaks were knee or ankle length and some had hoods attached.In the early middle age's cloaks were often very long and voluminous. Insteadof a brooch fastening a cord or chain was sometimes used, these were fixedto metal bosses on each side of the opening. Later in the middle age'scloaks were worn less often, only when they were needed for warmth. Thiswas due to the full outer garments that became common and the developmentof separate hoods.

Coif

A coif was a white linen cap worn by both sexes (also the name of mailhead armour, usually worn under a helmet). It was close fitting and tiedaround the chin. It was worn from the early middle ages onwards as a night-capor under another hat. A padded coif was also worn under a mail coif byknights and soldiers.

Cotehardie's

The cotehardie was an outer tunic or gown worn by both sexes in thefourteenth and early fifteenth centuries. The exact form of a cotehardieis not clearly defined. In the early fourteenth century the male versionwas a three quarter length tunic with wide sleeves a round neck and buttoneddown the front. From about 1340 it was shorter and more fitted, with elbowlength sleeves. The female cotehardie was a full length gown with a wideneckline and fitted torso with a full long skirt.

Couvrechefs

A couvrechef was a veil that was draped around the head then hung looseor tucked into the neckband of a gown. The Anglo-Saxon term for a couvrechefwas headrail. Couvrechefs were discarded by the upper classes in the fourteenthand fifteenth centuries but remained everyday wear for the lower classes.

Doublet's (Gipon's, Pourpoint's, Gambeson')

Doublet's were worn by men between the fourteenth and seventeenth century.In the fourteenth and Fifteenth centuries they were known as gipon's (jupon's)and pourpoint. They were derived from the gambeson that was a thick paddedgarment worn as body armour or under a mail shirt or hauberk. The giponwas a high necked hip or waist length tunic of the fourteenth centuries.The pourpoint of the late fourteenth and early fifteenth centuries wassquare necked with a knee length skirt.

Gard-corps

The gard-corps was a thirteenth century garment. It was loose and unbelted.It was worn over an under tunic. It was ankle or three-quarter length andhad wide sleeves that were gathered at the waist and slit to allow thearm to pass through while the rest of the sleeves hung in folds behind.

Girdle

A girdle was a belt for the waist or hips. Girdles were made of metal,leather, fabric or cord and often had one or two hanging ends. Often objectswere attached to or hung from a girdle: purse keys, knife, etc.

Gloves

Gloves were a symbol of power in the middle ages. This was especiallytrue with royalty and high ecclesiastical offices whose gloves were madeof deer or sheepskin. Gloves played a part in the investiture of knightsand bishops. Gloves were given to holders of civic offices on certain occasions.Strong leather gloves were used for hawking and falconry, important pastimesof the nobility. In the middle ages most people would use mittens ratherthan gloves.

Gown's

The gown has been worn by women from Saxon times. Styles have variedbut it has always been of at least ankle length. The cote, surcoat, houppelandeand cotehardie are all types of gown. In the early middle ages the gownwas long, full and loose fitting. It usually had a round neck split inthe front to allow it to be put on over the head. Most gowns were decoratedwith embroidered borders at the wrist and neck. In Saxon and Norman timesthe outer gown could be three-quarter length showing a floor length undergown.In the second half of the thirteenth century gowns were word ungirded andan overgown known as a cyclas or surcoat was introduced (see surcoat).In the fourteenth century gowns became more tailored and of much closerfit. Parti-colouring and counterchange designs were introduced as weretippets. As well as the sideless surcoat Houpplande's were very populartill the mid fifteenth century. From the fourteenth century till the midsixteenth gowns were also worn by men though they were very different tothose worn by women. Such a gown was worn by noblemen on top of a tunicand hose. It was long full and loose, open at the front with wide amplesleeves. It was made of velvet or damask and often lined with fur. Latergowns got shorter only reaching the knees or hips. Hanging sleeves werepopular or the cuffs were pushed up the arms so the material was drapedin many folds.

Hat's

Hat's were worn by men in Europe from classical times but until thesixteenth century it was rare for women to wear hats. During the middleages hats were worn only by men of rank and importance, the more commonhead covering was the hood. In the fifteenth century it became fashionableto wear a hat. There were a wide variety of hats from the sugar loaf hatto the hunting design with turned up rim and a long point, now firmly identifiedwith robin hood.

Head-dresses

Head-dresses were very popular in the fifteenth century they were madeup of metal, jewelled cauls velvets and silks, they were covered by veils.The most common styles included the infamous steeple head-dress, this isa long cone of brocade, velvet, cloth of gold or silver stiffened intoa cone. Then the cone is attached to a black velvet cap visible as a bandaround the base of the head-dress. It was commonly worn on the back ofthe head at an angle of about forty degrees. A truncated version, as wellas two and three coned versions were also known. Veils were often wiredto achieve an attractive shape. A popular shape was the butterfly in whicha double veil was shaped into two ridges further apart at the back.

Hoods

Hoods were worn from ancient times. They were worn separately as wellas attached to cloaks. They were used throughout the middle ages. Theywere originally simply a head covering buttoned or laced at the front.Later they were extended to include a shoulder cape. From the Fourteenthcentury the point on the top lengthened into a padded sausage that hungdown the wearers back, this extension was known as a liripipe. Later stillnew complex ways were developed to wear a hood. The common method was toput the face opening over the head and arrange the cape to hang in folds,either in front behind or to the side. The liripirpe Then hung loose onthe other side. By the 1420's more formal arrangements had been made forthe arrangement of hoods had evolved. The hood was modified so it was nolonger necessary to re-drape it each time it was put on. Women also worehoods, which were usually attached to capes for travelling.

Hose

From the fourteenth century as cloths were tailored to fit this trendwas applied to the chausses, from this point they are usually refered toas hose. They were in the form of two long stockings. They were kept upby being lace through eyelet holes at the bottom of the under tunic. Laterthe legs of the hose were joined and worn with a codpiece. Women wore similarhose but theirs only extended up to just above the knee. In the fourteenthcentury soled hose were often worn instead of shoes. It became the fashionto wear hoes with extended toes. This became so extreme that it becamedifficult to walk and toes had to be tied to the calf and stiffened withwhalebone. It was actually made illegal in England to wear hose extendingmore than three and a half inches beyond the toe. In the fifteenth centuryparti-coloured and stripped hose became popular.

Houppelande's

The houppeland was a voluminous outer garment derived from Flemish styles.It was by both sexes worn between 1360 and the late fifteenth century.The houppeland could be any length between mid calf and sweeping the ground(the female version was floor length). The houppeland was fitted on theshoulders and very full, draped in many folds, and usually belted. Theneckline followed current tunic styles except for the fourteenth centurywhen it had a very high neckline often up to the ears!. It could be buttonedall the way up the centre front but more often it was not open but wassplit to knee level at the sides. The sleeves were always wide and oftendagged. Houppelands were often lined in contrasting colours and furs.

Pattens

Pattens were overshoes made of leather metal and wood. They were fastenedto the foot by cloth or leather straps. They were worn to raise shoes andsoled hose above the mud and reduce ware on the sole. In the middle agespattens were just a lump of wood under the ball of the foot and anotherunder the heel with an arch in between.

Shoes

The early form of the shoe was a single piece of rawhide (often withthe fur still attached). These were attached with a thong of leather orsinew. They were still common in the dark ages and were used in remoteareas by the lower classes till the beginning of the twentieth century.Also common in the dark ages were simple sandals similar to those usedby the Romans and Byzantine's By the eleventh century shoes were maybefrom a separate sole and upper stitched together. In addition to leathercourt shoes were made of silk damask, and embroidered velvet. The pointed-toe shoe was introduced in the late eleventh century and in the fourteenthand fifteenth centuries reached excessive lengths. These piked shoes wereknown as poulaines. The shoes used in the middle ages were ankle shoesfastened with a buckle or button though rolled top versions laced up theside were also known.

Surcoat's

The surcoat or surcote was a garment worn over a tunic or cote. Thesurcoat was worn in civilian as well as military use and came in many variedforms. The male version was three quarter length showing the tunic beneath.In the late twelfth century the male Surcote developed sleeve. These wereoften long and loose and would have slits in the front at elbow level forthe arms to pass through turning the sleeves into hanging sleeves. In thefourteenth century the surcoat became less loose and sleeves were morecommonly three quarter length. Women also wore surcoats in the thirteenthcentury. At the time they were known as a cyclas. They were sleevelessat first with wide armholes (such cyclas made of rich materials were alsoworn by knights on ceremonial; occasions). Later hanging and three quarterbecame popular. In the fourteenth century Sideless surcoats became popularwomen's wear. These were worn over a underdress. They had a wide necklineand had huge armholes \reaching to the hip.

Tabard's

The tabard was originally a practical garment used by crusading knightsto protect them from the sun on their metal armour. It would often be decoratedwith a heraldic device to aid in identification. In the twelfth centuryit was adopted into civilian use worn over a tunic. The tabard was oftenused by heralds, decorated with the arms of their lord. A tabard in itssimplest form is just a rectangle of cloth with a hole for the neck.

Tippets

Tippets were pendant streamers hanging from the elbow length sleeveof the tunic or gown. This term was also sometimes used for the liripipeof a hood.

Tunic's

Tunic's have existed in different forms since ancient times. The tunicwas the usual wear in Europe before during and after the occupation ofthe Romans. For men the tunic was normally knee length, though the nobilitywould wear it ankle length. Women would sometimes wear a knee length tunicover a ground length gown. The tunic was eventually replaced by the fitteddoublet in the fourteenth century.

Trousers

In dark age Britain and Europe long loose trousers were widely worn.They were sometimes tied at the bottom or at the knee but they were alsooften worn loose. They were replaced by the chausses leg coverings of theCaroligians and Merrovingioans that later developed into medieval hose.These were often cris-crossed to the knee until the eleventh century. Closefitting trousers were also worn by both sexes in Byzantium. Byzantine fashionsexerted an important influence on Carolingian clothing and influenced thedevelopment of hose.

Turbans

Turbans are made up by wrapping a long piece of material around thehead in a variety of ways. They were popular in Europe from the early fifteenthcentury till the beginning of the sixteenth century.

Veils

Veils were originally made of linen silk and even wool, however as itbecame possible to weave fine semi-trasparent materials these were adoptedfor long flowing veils. In early time's veils were simply pieces of fabricheld in place by a fillet (band of material), ribbon, or pinned to thehair. In later period's veils accompanied the head-dress. They were drapedover it, around it or flowing down the back. In fifteenth century veilswere particularly popular worn with horned, and steeple head-dresses, cauls,turbans and occasionally wired into butterfly wings.

Wimples

A wimple is a women's head-dress popular from the twelfth to the midfourteenth century (and less fashionable in the fifteenth century). A wimpleis a piece of, usually white, silk or linen. A wimple was fastened to thehair on the crown of the head, or on each side above the ears and drapedto cover the chin neck and throat. The lower edge of a wimple was oftentucked into the neckline. Wimples were worn with a veil or couvrechef.

Decoration

Braid

Braid was a popular decoration for garments in the middle ages. It wasused for appliqué decoration, binding and trimming. It was producedwith a method known as tablet or card weaving. This involves threadingthread through a number of metal, bone or wood tablets with four hole init. The warp is stretched between two fixed points and twisted to forma corded effect when the weft is threaded through to hold them together.

Counterchanged Clothing

Counterchanged clothing is a type of particoloured clothing. The designuses a motif. The colour of the motif and the colour of the ground arereversed on another part of the garment.

Dagging

Dagges were a form of decoration introduced in the fourteenth centuryand lasting until the fifteenth. Dagges were jagged forms cut into theedges of garments. Dagges could be anything from simple v-shapes to complexleaf shapes. All garments except hose were dagged.

Embroidery

Embroidery was an important art in the middle ages especially in Italyand France. Heraldic patterns were used as were geometric and floral designs.Most garments were embroidered especially belts and pouches. Most embroiderywas worked on linen, with wool or silk, gold and silver tread was onlysparingly used. In the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries English embroiderywas the best in Europe. Scenes of animals and flowers were naturalistic,and silver thread and pearls introduced. In the fourteenth century velvetgrounds were used.

Parti-coloured clothing

Parti-coloured clothing was popular from the late twelfth century untilthe end of the fifteenth. It was introduced as clothing was more fitted.This involved producing the torso (and therefore skirt) from four partsand caused a seam down the front and back of the garment. Particolouredgarments were made using different coloured and or patterned fabrics. Thesedifferent fabrics were used to make the four parts of the garment. Clothingwas most commonly divided into half or quarters. Male hose were often particoloured.